Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a police siren pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds gather.

This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. However one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with plump mauve berries on a sprawling garden plot situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.

"I've noticed people hiding heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."

The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has organized a informal group of growers who produce vintage from four discreet urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and allotments throughout the city. It is too clandestine to have an official name yet, but the collective's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Vineyards Across the Globe

To date, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and over three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist cities stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect land from development by creating long-term, yielding farming plots inside cities," says the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a product of the earth the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, community, landscape and history of a city," adds the spokesperson.

Mystery Eastern European Grapes

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to attack once more. "This is the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he cleans damaged and mouldy grapes from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Activities Across the City

Additional participants of the collective are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from about 50 plants. "I adore the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of fruit resting on her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they keep cultivating from the soil."

Sloping Gardens and Natural Winemaking

Nearby, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a city street."

Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is picking clusters of dusty purple dark berries from lines of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her child, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in low-processing wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly make quality, natural wine," she states. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the wild yeasts come off the surfaces into the liquid," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and then add a commercially produced culture."

Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions

A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has gathered his companions to pick white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to erect a fence on

Susan Brown
Susan Brown

A mindfulness coach and writer passionate about helping others unlock their potential through daily practices and self-reflection.